torsdag 26 april 2012

Low season

We’re in low season. Mentally. We’ve been travelling for almost 4 months and we are a little tired of sightseeing. What we feel like doing? Not much. Just hang around the house, eat well and sleep well. And – luckily – le Vauclin is perfect for that! It is a sleepy little town where most of the action takes place at the beach. Or – right now – at home.

After the initial turmoil – we are truly enjoying the house. It has a huge veranda on all sides, with a constant breeze. It is approx 50 meters to the beach, and a 10 minute walk to town. This is the first house where we can actually stay at home a whole day without being fried.

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Walk to the beach

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Neighbor (makes no sounds as opposed to roasters – so he can live)

The beach is different. First of all, grass, which is a huge advantage right now because it is a lot easier to remove grass than sand from small mouths.IMG_2832

It is on the Atlantic coast and is very windy. Surfing in all forms and sailing is happening at a sport center. It is a secluded bay there you need to walk for at least 100 meters to be able to have water on your bellybutton. Perfect for kids. But the wind is very deceiving, it makes you think it’s less hot – and this has resulted in us getting really sunburnt…

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You walk, and walk, and walk……sun screen mandatory…

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The coconut palm trees are so tall they do not fit on one frame – even though I tried to turn the camera…

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About eating – there are a few great “European” restaurants at the beach (but it will cost us 50 Euros for a lunch for three.)

At home, we have not been starving. We visited the fish marked the other day – and I may brag about my French so far, but it does not cover the vocabulary for different fishes. (May I have that dolphin fish and can you remove the skin and filé it for me please?) So, the experience took a little longer than expected, involving at least 15 people and a lot of pointing with arms and legs. And we came home with the expected catch plus two living lobsters.

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All sorts of bottles in the background…

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Mmmmmmmm…

And with air condition we have enough energy to actually play inside…

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..or we just cool of a bit.

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onsdag 25 april 2012

Emergency evacuation

So far, our track record in terms of where we have lived has been great. Sure, all houses/apartments and places have had their pro’s and con’s, but we wouldn’t have changed anything so far. And considering that we have booked everything online and not seen it in real life before booking, it is quite impressive. Or maybe we just have the mindset of being optimistic and adapting to different situations.

But, all good things have to come to an end. Our latest move, from Fort-de-France to Le Vauclin on the east coast of Martinique, required some emergency re-planning.

Arriving at our place in Vauclin, scheduled for a two week stay, we simply wanted to do a 360 turn in the doorway. The smell was nauseating. It was like entering a bunker with only slits for windows. We realized that the apartment, on the first floor of a villa, had no windows in the bedrooms or living area, and only tiny openings in the three (!) bathrooms. The master bedroom, as mentioned without window, was covered in wooden panels, connected to a bathroom. You don’t require more than a couple of brain cells to figure out that that is not a good idea. We put on our “being sensible”-hats and put our feelings aside and discussed that the smell might disappear if we opened the tiny windows and let the place breathe for a while. We hadn’t paid anything to the landlady because French only accepts cash or cheques, so she was of course pushing me to pay. I paid her no more than a week, and told her that we were very unsure of the place. She blamed the smell on algae blooming in the bay.

We went to the beach and came back, the smell hitting us even outside the house. We put the kids to bed, and tried to forget the whole thing for a while by setting the table for a feast of cheese, hams and red wine. In two seconds, the place was invaded by millions of little flies. It didn’t matter how many times you hit them, they WOULD NOT die. It was so disgusting that we decided to spray the house with pesticide, even though the kids were sleeping. That only resulted in the kitchen being full of ten million dead flies.

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Flies that fly no more

No need to tell you that we did not have a lot of cheese, ham and red wine, we both felt sick. We went to bed, and it was so humid that the sheets were wet. And the horrific smell. Words does not describe how disgusting it was. The next morning, all the dead flies were gone. “Something” had obviously eaten them. Then there were bugs. And cockroaches. And more flies. We decided jointly : Emergency evacuation required.

We went through the options; Stay in Vauclin? Head back to Fort de France? Somewhere else on the island? We decided on the latest, and to rent a car and use the day to drive south until we found a place we liked. But the car rental only rented cars for 3 days minimum, so we discarded that plan. We decided to not ruin the day but to walk down to the beach to have lunch, and keep discussing. During lunch, I overheard the waitress discussing an apartment with some guests. I asked her if she knew somewhere we could rent, she didn’t, but sent me to the chef, who took me to the surf shop next door – and I walked away with his card and a list of 10 different people to contact.

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Wonderful coffee and fruitful contacts from surf boy

We went home, passing a house that looked empty, and sighed jointly that if only we knew who owns this, maybe it is for rent….

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….and what are the odds; on the list of contacts was a webpage displaying this house. I called, and yes, it was free for two weeks! I explained the situation and he asked me to meet me at the house in 45 minutes, he would jump in his car from Fort de France and we could move in right away. But we didn’t have to decide until we had seen it. We did decide anyway, and I gathered some confidence to talk to the landlady and tell her we were leaving, and to try getting the payment refunded. I decided on putting on the emotional face and it resulted in this:

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Damn I’m good (yeah, and sunburnt…)

Back to the evacuation. 45 minutes would be just after 17.00. This is the busiest time of day in our family. Two kids and ourselves to feed, and start getting the kids ready to be in bed by 18.30. But, emergency evacuation required operational excellence, so I fed one kid while making pasta and ketchup to the other, B packed all our stuff, meanwhile we tried to get a bite or two of pasta ourselves.

By 19.30, the kids were in bed in our new house and we were moved in. Oh bliss! Evacuation completed. Worth mentioning is that all communication has been done in French, English is completely useless here. And having telephone conversations in French is a real challenge. *puh*!

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F thinks moving is fun

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NOW we enjoyed it!

lördag 21 april 2012

Kid’s day

We decided to let the kids have some fun for a day. According to Lonely planet – if you make only one day trip it should be to le Jardin de Balata. So – we did. And we are not disappointed!

We spent the morning there, and since the kids wake up (way too) early we were the only tourists there at first. Oh the beauty!

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E killing some of the ants in her pants

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An emerging palm tree (made us think of Giger)

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View all the way to the east coast

 

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And now some flower pornography…:

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Also, some not so beautiful species in the park….

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Hockey’n lever!

Then we drove to a farm/playground for kids, La ferme Perrine. We planned to eat there as well , but we got lost and after a detour to the airport and a village center time flew so we bowed our heads in shame and had lunch here:

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At least it’s not KFC….

After some instructions from the police we reached the farm.  It was currently under renovation and had slightly less animals than expected but E didn’t care about that.

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A great day for both kids and grown ups!

fredag 20 april 2012

Volcanoes, beef and more coffee

Time to jump in the car and see what Martinique looks like beyond Fort de France. We were exited to visit St Pierre, a town with a very violent history. In 1902, the then 30 000 town was completely destroyed after a volcanic eruption from Mount Pelée.

Driving in Martinique is exceptionally easy compared to the other countries we have visited so far. Driving on the right, road signs and real high ways, so for the first time in four months we have passed 70 km/h! It was actually quite scary…I asked B if it was weird being on the right side, but he said it felt just natural.

In St Pierre we started by visiting the museum. Interesting!

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Some one was caught by surprise during supper…

Then we went on a tour of the town, which was a quick walk. Too bad for St Pierre the main road leads right through the village, causing quite some traffic.

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You cold see the traces of the eruption every where, versus the newly built. Very pretty town!

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Then we saw a butcher – and decided to get some Le Boeuf. He decided on 330 g steaks –we didn’t complain.

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No chicken, please

Now it was time to visit the infamous volcano Mount Pelée. We drove up a winding road, not unlike in Tobago or Grenada, meaning no paint and just wide enough for two cars. All of a sudden we meet a car - face-to-face - and realize that B is driving on the left. The French guy in the other car used a lot of body language to let us know we were idiots. I haven’t laughed so hard in a long time.

 

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Mount Pelée – posing to the sound of sleeping children in the car

There was a coffee shop at the start of the hiking trail (of course)

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Some people got ready to hike – only French people would bring baguettes on hiking???

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One of the wonderful things about being up in the mountains was the temperature, as opposed to about 33 in Fort de France.

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Aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh….first goose bumps after leaving home

Then we headed back to the capital through the rain forest and nice surroundings.

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A road sign! In readable size!

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France with palm trees!

torsdag 19 april 2012

Bon appetit!

Food in Martinique is supposed to be a mix of Creole and French, so we have been trying both. Pancakes for breakfast have been changed to B running down to the boulanger in the morning getting us fresh pain and pain au chocolat.

French wise – not much to say: Coffee, pain and croissants everyday in all shapes and sizes!

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Drinking coffee with style

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Dieting French style?

But in the Supermarket you find all sorts of imported foods

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Norwegian salt fish!

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Paris restaurant?

We were excited to see if the creole food in Martinique was any different from the other islands. We searched the streets for the restaurant that looked the most local. We found a “whole in the wall” with an old woman as a chef and only local people eating, and decided we found our spot. I have to say, that so far I have been impressed by how my French is working out, but here, I had a challenge. This wonderfully welcoming woman and I communicated intensively. It is the same type of food here, the usual side dished of vegetables, rice and beans/lentils, and your choice of fish, chicken or, ah! Beef! Only this time, the old woman decided what we should eat. I wanted to order beef for every one, but she would not allow it. E should have the fried fish, and that was decided. Then she started talking about “something” and I thought I understood, but she probably saw the insecurity in my face because she said

“Do you understand me?”
“Yes” I said.
“So repeat what I said” with a huge grin on her face.

The food was great! She was not happy with both me an B having beef, so she said we had to come back to have the fish stew.

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Also, we had the opportunity to see what the locals order, and all of the visitors (old men) started with getting a bottle of rhum and a pot of sugar on their table, and made them self an aperitif.

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The kids are enjoying the food too!

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Until next time! *burp*