Life and death in France

Last night our lovely landlord couple arrived at our doorstep in Vauclin (haven driven across the island only to see us) with onion pie and special Martinique banana liquor. They spent a couple of hours on our porch chatting (with me) and me translating to B (far too little, according to him). They are so hospitable and friendly. And I will say that the pie and the liquor was great, but maybe not together…..

Now we’re back in Fort de france, Martinique. I don’t know what it is with this city, but its just good for all of us. Since we are off to Dominica on Monday, meaning yet again a step out of civilization, we spent the day truly enjoying the good life, and doing some essential shopping (new coffee machine on top of the list!)

This morning – the ride to Fort de France was certainly more dramatic. Getting around this island without a rental car and the amount of luggage we carry is practically impossible. So – when we went to Vauclin we asked the landlord if he has any friend who could drive us, and make some extra cash. It was about a 45 minute drive, and his buddy took us for 40 euros. Now returning, we asked our Vauclin landlord if he could organize something similar, sure he could! Well. 09 AM this morning a car with a “real” taxi sign arrives. Anyway, off we go. I took the opportunity to chat with him, it is always interesting. He told me he is a taxi driver (obviously), but also the president of the “taxi union” in Martinique. He decides the rules, prices and teaches to-be taxi drivers about it. Now, that doesn’t seem like the best candidate to hire as a pirate taxi…… I asked him about the price, and he said “I drive with the meter” (who would have thought differently). It was on 12 euros at the start of the trip so both B and I swallowed hard and saw Euros flying out the window. B said cautiously that we had hoped that we would get a special price – he said he would see what the meter said on arrival and give us a small discount. Well, we could only wait and see.

A few minutes later, he receives a phone call. All of a sudden he burst into tears. He just got the news that his mother died! He wept and wept, poor man, we gave our heartfelt condolences and asked him to please pull over and take a moment, but he insisted on driving. B even offered to drive for him, but he wanted to keep going. So, for the rest of the trip he drove and wept and we felt really sorry for him. When we arrived the meter was on 78 euros and he offered us 65, but we didn’t really have the heart, so he got 70.

Now for some more cheese and wine. What else!